Day 17

Went surfing at Gum's this morning with Tocci, the waves were 3-5 feet. I was out there for two hours, and the whole time turtles were popping there heads out of the water all around me. After some lunch I surfed Off The Wall, even though the waves had died down to 2-3 feet, the wave was pretty intense because it breaks on about a foot of water over a sharp reef. I don't know how people surf big waves there. I took a couple of waves, and on my last one I put my hand down to paddle back out to the break and I touched the reef. I attempted to paddle out anyway, but with the sets coming in and no where to dive I turned around and called it a session.

Later that afternoon, Austin, Drew, Nick and I headed downtown to take part in the St. Patricks Day festivities.