Tocci lent me his truck today, I headed up to his house and paddled out. The faces of the waves were 10-12 feet, the biggest waves I've ever surfed. I was out there for two hours and caught two waves. The second wave I took, I dropped in and raced to the bottom as I pumped my way through, the section in front of me began to crumble. I headed toward the lip of the wave and when by board hit the lip I went flying about 8 feet in the air, I was happy that the water was deep enough underneath me. It was a lot of fun but at the same time it was kind of scary dropping in on those sets.
Later that evening I made fresh sauce and chicken cutlets. Paul, Nita, Tocci and I enjoyed a feast. The waves are supposed to be humongous tomorrow so I probably won't surf but I should get some great pictures.
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