Woke up early this morning and did a spot check with Paul. The waves were pretty big, so we went back to the house, I grabbed my board and paddled out at Haliewa Park. It was an easy paddle out there, and about fifteen minutes after I got out, a large set came and washed me across the reef and to the harbor entrance. I panicked a little, thinking I would never be able to make it back out to the line up. Just at that moment, a large sea turtle with a head as big as mine popped up next to me and instantly calmed me down. My logic for some reason was if the turtle can do it, I can do it. So I paddled back out to the line up, after about twenty minuted of paddling I made it out there. When I got out to the line up I ended up waiting for a wave for ten minutes. Once again a large set came; I was able to duck-dive clean under the first wave. I wasn't as fortunate with the second, when I dove under the wave I got pushed down to the bottom and flipped around. I had no idea which way was up, I grabbed the leash attached to my ankle and followed it back to my board on the surface. Upon getting to the surface I took a big breath and looked to my right and found I wasn't the only victim, there was another surfer in my same position. We grabbed our boards and let the white-water bring us to shore. After that session I came to the realization, North Shore waves really pack a punch and they are like nothing I have ever surfed.
After a couple of hours rest, I grabbed my bike and headed north to meet with Austin and Drew at Pipeline. It was a beautiful wave and there was a good crowd of people out in the water catching barrel after barrel. There were even people surfing way outside at Wamiea bay. I headed back to the house where I met Tocci a good friend of Paul's he took me to surf a spot called Alligator head. This session was much more successful then the first. I caught a couple of waves and was able to relax a little more.
After grabbing dinner, Tocci got a text from a friend about a possible tsunami. I had never experienced anything like this. We turned on the news, and before we knew it all the news reports were telling us to evacuate to higher ground. All his neighbors packed up immediately and left their houses eventhough nothing was expected to hit for five hours. We took our time and left the house around twelve-thirty about three hours before it was expected to hit. All the while we were getting ready, the sirens were going off and people even drove by with loud speakers announcing that we needed to vacate the area. Tocci, Nita (Paul's wife) and I headed to a friend house up on a hill about four miles inland. We watched the live camera's feed on the news of the beaches showing the reefs completely dry up and then cover over many times. Fortunately no real damage was done and I lived to share another adventure.
 |
The break at Haliewa Park. |
 |
The neck breaking shorebreak at Wiamea bay. |
 |
Big-bottom turn at Pipeline. |
 |
Guy catching a huge barrel at Pipeline. |
 |
I was really tempted to break into this house and get the pot of gold. |
No comments:
Post a Comment