Day 27

Woke up this morning to some sun but as the morning progressed, the rain rolled in. I went to the grocery store with Mo and on our way back the sun came out and we drove with the top down (my first time, I now understand the thrill of a convertible). We got back to the house and after lunch, I hung out by the pool, enjoyed the weather and my first prepackaged Jack Daniels and Cola. I will be heading to the Central Business District in the morning and then off to the airport in the afternoon, I am flying up to Byron Bay where I will be staying in a giant Tee Pee for a few  nights. Hopefully I will continue to have Internet service.

A colorful Birds of Paradise flower in Mo and Tony's garden.

The neighbor's helicopter, it is kinda loud...

Prepackaged Jack and Coke by the pool.

Just Enjoy

Day 26

I woke up this morning to watch the NCAA tournament on ESPN 2, my bracket and I am sure everyone else's as well, has officially been turned upside down. Then Dan drove me up to North Avalon and I surfed for about an hour and a half. I stuck out in the line up because I was the only one not wearing a wetsuit. The water is really warm here but the Aussies love their "wetties". While the waves were a bit messy it was really fun and about shoulder height. I booked my flight to the Gold Coast and will be heading up there on Tuesday and stay there till April 14th. I hope to catch a little drier weather up there but if not I am out in the water anyway

North Avalon beach

Day 25

After a fun night in Manly, I had my first experience with public transportation and while the bus drivers are extreamly helpful the service is somewhat confusing. It rained all day so I didn't really do much after getting back up to Terrey Hills. I hope to have some better weather tomorrow.

A stormy view of Manly bay, those posts in the water are the shark nets.



Day 24

Had another early morning, as my internal clock was a bit off. I watched the sunrise from my bedroom and listened to the noisy birds. Then Joe gave me a ride with him to work in the CBD( central business district) and I explored Sydney. I bought myself a cheap prepay phone and stopped at the bank to pick up some Aussie dollars. I then stopped by Radical Media's Sydney office and had some lunch with them. In the middle of lunch I received a call from my buddy Jack who I had gone to middle school with and hadn't seen sincethe end of 8th grade when he moved down to Australia. He picked me up and showed me around Manly and the northern beaches and we even went surfing at Narrabeen beach. The surf wasn't very big, but I was able to catch a few fun ones on my new board. After building up an appetite we headed back to Manly and watched the end of the Duke V. Arizona game (my bracket is officially in ruins). Then we headed to his buddy's restaurant called Beaches. I highly recommend Beaches if your looking for a nice thin crust pizza in Manly.

I still can't believe I am in Australia, it was so nice to see a good friend after 8 years. It was as though we had never been apart.

An Australian sunrise from my bedroom in Terrey Hills.

A view of Manly Bay from Jack's house.

Narrabeen beach all to myself.

My new board that Pono shaped me, it was so much fun! Thank you Pono for giving me exactly what I needed.

Day 23

Had another early start this morning, got up early and packed all my bags and Tocci came over and helped me pack my two new boards. After a quick breakfast Nita drove me to the airport and on my way we saw a huge double rainbow in the valley. After saying good bye I proceeded into the terminal, checked my board bag and backpack once again with no charge and then for some reason was eligible to skip the security line.

My flight took off at 10:15 am on March 23rd and I landed in Sydney at 5 pm March 24th, even though it was only a ten hour flight since I crossed the international dateline and lost a day. The flight was enjoyable and had three movies: The Kings Speech, Fair Game and Salt. The first two were entertaining but the last of the three was pretty bad. After getting off the flight I went through customs and then caught a ride to a family friends house where I will be staying for the weekend.

I would like to Thank Paul, Nita and Tocci for making me feel so welcome on the North Shore! Even though they had never met me they took me in a treated me like family. I am forever grateful and hope to be able to return the favor when they come to NYC.

Paul, Nita and I get one last picture before I head to the airport.

Tocci wanted to play tough guy and not admit he is gonna miss me so I went with it.

Day 22

I had a great last day in Hawaii! I got up early and prepared the chicken and vegetables and put them in the marinade. Then I made a make shift box to send my tiki statue home in, and while it is over three feet tall and at least 15 lbs it somehow only cost me $25 to ship home. After having a bite to eat I headed up to Gums and caught one of the best barrels, if not the best barrel I've ever had, I even got props for it by a couple of people in the line up. I am still not sure how I made the drop, but some how my signature rail grab pulled me through. At the conclusion of the session I headed to Austin's place where I saw the same monk seal that I had seen the day before. I finished the night drinking margaritas and cooking chicken fajitas for Paul, Nita, Tocci, Austin, Kohl and Sara. It was the perfect way to conclude my amazing two weeks on the North Shore!

Austin squaring off with the monk seal.

Day 21

Went to Tocci's  this morning where I was walking by the rocks and one of them moved, at this point I realized that it wasn't a rock but a giant 5 foot seal. After admiring it from a distance I left and headed up to check Pipeline with Austin. Austin had just come in and said it was really heavy and crowded out in the line up, so we went to Wiameia bay instead. While we were body surfing we put our heads under water and could hear the whales talking in the distance. Unfortunately, tomorrow will be my last full day in Hawaii as I am headed off to the Land of OZ on Wednesday at 10am.

This is a rare Monk Seal that I stumbled upon on the beach, they are critically endangered and in 2010 it was estimated that there were only 1100 remaining.

Pipeline coming in clean and powerful.

Day 20

Picked up Austin this morning and we headed to Alligators with Tocci. The waves were pretty big and it was a solid 15 minute paddle to make it out past the break. I pulled into the biggest wave I have ever taken, was in the barrel and then got pitched by the lip of the wave and plummeted deep into the water. I survived and soon after paddled back to shore. Later in the day I headed back to Paul's and made some more delicious pizzas.

Pipeline going off again.

My second pizza, much better than my first.

Day 19

Today was quite an action packed day. Got up after a light night of sleeping, after worrying about if I would survive my jump or not. Nita drove me to the airfield and after a few rain delays, the sky opened up and I was on my way up to make the jump. As we took off I began to second guess myself, as we reached 12,000 feet the door opened and I was on my way. After free falling for about 25 seconds, Nacho pulled the parachute and we glided to the ground. We did a few spins and even caught some zero-G. We landed on the ground and my heart was racing for about an hour after I landed.

We headed back to the house and the pizza oven was burning hot. After taking a quick nap, it was time to make some pizzas. As the night went on, everyone made pizzas and had a great time!

Nita and I before the jump, she was my moral support to get me to go.

Me looking out the door, asking myself what I was thinking...



Bombs Away!!!

Flying high above the clouds.

This is what I look like at 200 MPH.

Coming in for a landing.

My certificate of completion.

Paul and Tocci with the first pizza of the day.

The pizza oven at a cool 1000 degrees, ready to cook some pizzas

Making my first pizza.

The crew at the pizza party.

Day 18

Austin and I had a long morning trying to navigate the streets of Waikiki in order to find Nick and Drew. After getting to their vicinity, we stopped for a nice big breakfast. As we left the restaurant we found Nick and Drew lounging on a patch of grass looking like bums. We headed back to the North Shore, were I cleaned the kitchen downstairs in order to prepare for the upcoming Pizza Party. After dinner, Paul and I worked late into the night to make 16 pounds of pizza dough that we will use tomorrow night.



Paul and I hard at work making the pizza dough.

Day 17

Went surfing at Gum's this morning with Tocci, the waves were 3-5 feet. I was out there for two hours, and the whole time turtles were popping there heads out of the water all around me. After some lunch I surfed Off The Wall, even though the waves had died down to 2-3 feet, the wave was pretty intense because it breaks on about a foot of water over a sharp reef. I don't know how people surf big waves there. I took a couple of waves, and on my last one I put my hand down to paddle back out to the break and I touched the reef. I attempted to paddle out anyway, but with the sets coming in and no where to dive I turned around and called it a session.

Later that afternoon, Austin, Drew, Nick and I headed downtown to take part in the St. Patricks Day festivities.

Day 16

Had my first session this morning at Log Cabins Beach with Austin and Drew. Then we headed into Haleiwa to grab some lunch and shave ice from Mosumoto Market. After hanging out in town for a little bit I drove Austin and Drew back to their place. Then I picked up Tocci from work and we headed north for a quick forty-five minute session at pipeline, my first. Even though the waves were only 4-6 feet, the waves were extremely powerful.

Hope everyone has a Happy Saint Patrick's Day!


Trying on some size fifty rainbows.



Enjoying my Mosumoto shave ice.

Day 15

The waves were huge today, the sets were rolling in at 25-30 feet. Austin, Drew and I biked around the North Shore observing the power and force of the waves. I saw people tow-in surfing off Haliewa and people paddling on their Guns(long surfboards used for big wave surfing) at Wiamea. It was quite a site to see.

The guns were out at Wiamea Bay.

The power of the Pacific.

Keiki beach break, pounding the shoreline.

All the Pipeline Master's winners.

Drew, Austin and I looking out at the waves at Sunset beach.

The North Shore bike path, where at times you feel like your in the middle of a rainforest.

Another beautiful Hawaiian flower.

Day 14

Tocci lent me his truck today, I headed up to his house and paddled out. The faces of the waves were 10-12 feet, the biggest waves I've ever surfed. I was out there for two hours and caught two waves. The second wave I took, I dropped in and raced to the bottom as I pumped my way through, the section in front of me began to crumble. I headed toward the lip of the wave and when by board hit the lip I went flying about 8 feet in the air, I was happy that the water was deep enough underneath me. It was a lot of fun but at the same time it was kind of scary dropping in on those sets.

Later that evening I made fresh sauce and chicken cutlets. Paul, Nita, Tocci and I enjoyed a feast. The waves are supposed to be humongous tomorrow so I probably won't surf but I should get some great pictures.

Day 13

Another day in paradise. I biked up to Tocci's house this afternoon and surfed for a couple of hours. After getting out, I realized I didn't quite get my whole back with sunblock and I was quite pink. In the evening I went to Turtle bay for a couple of beers with Austin and Drew. Tomorrow should be another great day of sun and waves.



A stunning Hibiscus

Typical Sunday crowd at Haleiwa park.

No gym membership needed here, so many activities on the water.

Day 12

I helped Tocci out with some work today, we headed down to Waikiki early this morning to pick up solar panels. It is amazing how a forty-five minute drive separates these two dramatically different sides of the island, the southern end of the island is very developed with high rises littering the skyline. One can only imagine what it all looked like before all the hotels were built. We drove all the way to Kamole Park, where the mountain sides are covered with mansions. Tocci installed the Panels and I assisted by lifting the solar panels up to him. He let me head back early and I drove the truck back north. It was about three in the afternoon when I reached the North Shore. I headed to Tocci's house grabbed a board and paddled out through the channel for another fun session, and where at times I was the only one out at the break as head high waves rolled in. I am finally figuring out how to catch the waves in Hawaii and I caught a bunch of fun ones today. I got back to Paul and Nita's around six-thirty and enjoyed some of Nita's delicious chicken stew. After concluding the meal I quickly faded and fell asleep pretty early after a long day in Hawaii.

Driving to "The Land"

St Michael Church, built in 1853.

Alligator head's surf spot, this is where I have surfed the most. Even on a Saturday no one is really out there.

Plumeria, a typical vibrant tropical flower.

Priceless Hawaiian sunset.

Day 11

I didn't sleep much last night, between waiting for the tsunami to hit and my phone going off, I probably got three hours of sleep. Nita and I headed back to the house early in the morning, I had been a very desired morsel by the mosquitoes in the house on the hill. There was a lot of traffic on the way back to the house, a drive that should've taken us five minutes, took us twenty. We got back to the house and all was well. Paul came out and asked us how our camping trip was. We had heard that there was damage at the harbor, I biked down there to check it out. Not much damage was done, except one of the docks got ripped off it's piling. I went to the stream to discover that the water was flowing really fast inland, and then back out to sea ten minutes later in a continuous cycle. After checking out all the excitement, I headed back to the house took a shower and then had  a long nap to catch up on some sleep. After a nice nap Tocci came and picked me up to go surf, the waves were about shoulder high and I even saw some large whales playing in the distance.

Thank you to everyone who contacted me to see if I was ok, I appreciate the concern. All is well here in Hawaii and I am now experienced with tsunamis.

The Anahulu Stream Bridge (A.K.A. The Rainbow Bridge) 

One dock at the harbor got destroyed, even though it was supposed to be tsunami proof.

The beaches were all closed in the morning, you could see the brown current pulling out to sea.

The Anahulu Stream flowing heavy upstream from the tsunami tides.

The same stream flowing the opposite direction ten minutes later.

Day 10

Woke up early this morning and did a spot check with Paul. The waves were pretty big, so we went back to the house, I grabbed my board and paddled out at Haliewa Park. It was an easy paddle out there, and about fifteen minutes after I got out, a large set came and washed me across the reef and to the harbor entrance. I panicked a little, thinking I would never be able to make it back out to the line up. Just at that moment, a large sea turtle with a head as big as mine popped up next to me and instantly calmed me down. My logic for some reason was if the  turtle can do it, I can do it. So I paddled back out to the line up, after about twenty minuted of paddling I made it out there. When I got out to the line up I  ended up waiting for a wave for ten minutes. Once again a large set came; I was able to duck-dive clean under the first wave. I wasn't as fortunate with the second, when I dove under the wave I got pushed down to the bottom and flipped around. I had no idea which way was up, I grabbed the leash attached to my ankle and followed it back to my board on the surface. Upon getting to the surface I took a big breath and looked to my right and found I wasn't the only victim, there was another surfer in my same position. We grabbed our boards and let the white-water bring us to shore. After that session I came to the realization, North Shore waves really pack a punch and they are like nothing I have ever surfed.

After a couple of hours rest, I grabbed my bike and headed north to meet with Austin and Drew at Pipeline. It was a beautiful wave and there was a good crowd of people out in the water catching barrel after barrel. There were even people surfing way outside at Wamiea bay. I headed back to the house where I met Tocci a good friend of Paul's he took me to surf a spot called Alligator head. This session was much more successful then the first. I caught a couple of waves and was able to relax a little more.

After grabbing dinner, Tocci got a text from a friend about a possible tsunami. I had never experienced anything like this. We turned on the news, and before we knew it all the news reports were telling us to evacuate to higher ground. All his neighbors packed up immediately and left their houses eventhough nothing was expected to hit for five hours. We took our time and left the house around twelve-thirty about three hours before it was expected to hit. All the while we were getting ready, the sirens were going off and people even drove by with loud speakers announcing that we needed to vacate the area. Tocci, Nita (Paul's wife) and I headed to a friend house up on a hill about four miles inland. We watched the live camera's feed on the news of the beaches showing the reefs completely dry up and then cover over many times. Fortunately no real damage was done and I lived to share another adventure. 

The break at Haliewa Park.

The neck breaking shorebreak at Wiamea bay.

Big-bottom turn at Pipeline.

Guy catching a huge barrel at Pipeline.

I was really tempted to break into this house and get the pot of gold.